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Gothic Lolita is a Japanese fashion inspired by the
J-Rock and Visual Kei music scene. It has has little in common with
traditional western goth culture except for the color black (and even
less to do with the traditional meaning of Lolita!) however it has
become more common in the US alternative scene over the past few years.
Strict Gothic Lolita style is very brand conscious,
although there are a lot of lovers of the look these days that are much
more relaxed, and mix in clothing with a general dark "dolly" or maid
look, often blending in a helping of cosplay.
The color scheme is usually BxW (black with white trim), WxB (white with black trim), or BxB (black
with black trim). Related to the Gothic variety, the Sweet Lolita
clothing is made of dainty, girlish colors, often with flower, fruit
and other "cute" motifs. Pale blue (think Alice in Wonderland) is also
nice.
Home made clothing and DIY accessories are a part of
many Lolitas' wardrobe. The authentic brands are very hard to get
outside of Japan (although more companies have started shipping to the
US), expensive, and Japanese sizes often do not fit well.
Luckily, much of the clothing in the Gothic
Lolita style is easy to make yourself, and many of the EGL magazines,
mooks and "bibles" have patterns .
The skirt is usually slightly above the knee, full,
and decorated with a variety of lace trims, bows, ruffles, pintucks,
flounces and bustles.
The shape of the skirt is often bell-like, made of
straight pieces gathered at the waist, although sometimes you see a
gored (made of several trapezoids) or circle skirt shape. The
former shape is most flattering to those with a straight/slim hipped
figure (and is more traditional), while the latter is more flattering
to those with larger hips or a more hourglass shape. The reason for
this is that the straight-gathered skirt will have the same amount of
fabric in the waist area as at the hem, while the other styles, because
they taper towards the top, will have less bulk gathering at your hip
area.
Petticoats, petticoats, petticoats! One of the
signatures of the doll-like Gothic Lolita style is a skirt with
an abundance of stiff petticoats to hold up the skirt.
Square dance suppliers are a good source of
petticoats and patterns that can be modified for a Gothic Lolita look,
but be careful not to just grab the biggest poofy thing you see. The
general silhouette of a Lolita skirt is different, more bell shaped,
where a square dance petticoat is often flounced to the point of
ridiculousness so that the skirt practically turns upwards like a tutu.
(Not that that can't be a fun look, but the shape really screams
"squaredance!". and it's not keeping with the EGL style.) Keep to the
smaller, more controlled shapes.
Tops are usually button down blouses, often
including details like puff sleeves, peter pan collars, pintucking,
lace, frills, and sleeves gathered with ribbons.
Lace trims and ribbons are used profusely. Many
kinds of lace can be used for different effects. White agains black is
particularly striking. Often you will see a plain ruffled nylon lace.
More expensive Venise laces give a richer look. Eyelet lace
(cotton fabric with embroidered holes) is very sweet and innocent
looking. Beaded lace (trim
with holes cut out at intervals and a piece of ribbon threaded through)
is very popular, usually found in eyelet style lace, but also in other
materials.
Shoes
are usually exaggerated and doll like, for example platform mary janes,
often shiny patent leather in black or white. Stockings or tights may
be black or white, or striped. Lace trim and ribbons often embellish
over the knee stockings.
Tea parties are a popular Gothic Lolita get-together.
A lace or silk parasol is an important acessory.
Small versions are better. You can often find these in bridal stores,
or you can make your own by buying a kit or re-covering an old one.
Headwear is key to a Lolita's outfit. It may be a
full blown Victorian style bonnet, a simple lace & ribbon square, a
tiny top hat or even a little jewelled crown.
Gloves are a nice touch to your loli costume, go for the short dainty ones.
Pinafores and aprons go well with the maid or Alice look. A tiny heart shape apron is also very cute!
Other accessories include tiny purses, dolls and teddy bears.
Decorative motifs may include crowns, gothic crosses, bats, coffins, skulls and hearts.
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Resources and sites to drool over:
Here are some places that sell
Gothic Lolita clothing. They mostly only sell in Japan, but a few will
ship to the US. Even if they are too pricy for you though, they
are fun to window shop!
Baby the Stars Shine Bright
Moi-même-Moitié
Metamorphose
CandyFruit
Mary Magdalene
Baby Secret Love
Blanche-Neige
Cocquette Doll
Mihu Matsuda
ID Japan
Victorian Maiden
Atalier Boz
Cosmates Japan
Kazuko Ogawa
Milky Ange
Information:
These are some good places to find out general information, as well as pictures and directories of Gothic Lolita resources.
Wikipedia on Gothic Lolita
Avante Gauche
Crosses & Petticoats
Communities:
Looking for other Lolis? Here are some communities you can join.
EGL Livejournal
J-List
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